Disposal of aquatic plants and animals

Too many times non native plants and animals are released into the wild either unintentionally or because the aquarist can no longer care for them. This poses a unique problem to many hobbyists…what exactly do I do with my aquatic plant/animal that I cannot care for? With the help of this wonderful thing that eats up most of my day (the internet, for you non-it people that actually work) I’ll try to cover some of the basics here… Plants Let’s say that John Q. Aquarist has an over abundance of a particular aquatic plant. “Whatever will I do with all of these plants?” John wonders. Well, there are a number of ways to safely dispose of these potentially invasive species, here are a few: Burning: If allowed in your area, can be an excellent way of disposing of plants that have seeds. Freezing or Drying: This will effectively destroy plants, but might allow seeds to survive. You can place them in a zipper type plastic bag and throw them away after this. Composting: Like freezing or drying, this will also do the job of destroying the plant, but seeds can potentially survive to be carried off by birds or animals that might ingest the seeds. (Source:invasives. eeb. uconn. edu) Animals John Q. Aquarist got up this morning and discover that his tank contained a huge batch of baby platies. “Ruh roh, what I’m going to do now? My tank can’t support this many fish!” John laments. Don’t worry, John, there is help! Friends: If you have a friend that is into the wonderful world of fish keeping, perhaps he’d like some little guys. Use your head though: if he or she would like to have them, make sure you let your friend know the particulars about the species…it will just put your pal in the same position if he or she is not prepared. LFS: If your LFS is like mine, they will take your unwanted pets…sometimes for a trade, sometimes not. Either way, it’s better than euthanizing or flushing. (Flushing is particularly cruel...a slow death is guaranteed by suffocation or poisoning) Whatever you decide to do, never release them into the wild! Aquatic plants and animals could introduce diseases that the native population is not prepared for. At best, some species can out - compete the natives. Some states have penalties for improper disposal of aquatic life. I hope this helps to answer some questions and prevent any unfortunate incidents. If you have anything to add, by all means, do. In no way do I consider this definitive, so let’s see some other opinions! (Remember, you can always contact your local Department of Natural Resources or Health Department for specific information for your area)

Tips on how to groom your cat

Before we begin to give you additional information on this topic, take a moment to think about what you already know. Cats are basically very tidy creatures. They are in the habit of grooming themselves by licking every part of their body clean with their tongue. This habit of tongue-bathing has several benefits to your pet cat: - promotes better circulation of the blood - gets rid of dead skin cells - removes excess/dead hair on their coat - tones their muscles - keeps the fur soft and clean Although your feline friends groom on their own, you should still do your part in keeping your cat clean and well-groomed. Here are several ways to keep your cat well-groomed: 1. Brushing Depending on the breed, your cat can either have long or short hair. Make sure that you brush your cat’s coat well enough to promote proper grooming. -For cats with short hair, use a brush with soft bristles so that the skin will not be scratched or hurt in the grooming process. Use soft, gentle strokes while brushing. This should make them purr in pleasure and you will have an easier job of grooming your pet cat. After brushing the coat with a comb, you can finish the job by wiping the fur with a dry, soft and clean piece of cloth. This should maintain the shine on your cat’s coat. -As compared to cats with shorter hair, long-haired cats would require more brushing time. For this, use a comb with wide-teeth that is specially designed for cats. This should initially remove the knots and tangles on their fur. Afterwards, you can use a fine-toothed comb to work the smaller knots on the fur and eliminate the more stubborn knots. Do not forget to brush the hair around the face with a smaller comb or a toothbrush. Avoid the eye and whisker area when brushing. Brushing your cats fur on a regular basis will help keep their coat shiny and healthy, and will also give the owner and the pet some bonding time together. 2. Bathing Cats do not often require bathing because they basically take good care of themselves when it comes to grooming. However, there are some cases wherein you need to give them a bath no matter how you – and your pet – dread the chore. You need to bath your cat if the coat has excessive dirt. Sometimes, a substance that can possibly poison them sticks on the fur and it is vital to give them a bath in this case. Another instance where you need to bath your cat is in case of fleas, ticks and lice clinging to their skin. 3. Cleaning the eyes and ears. For the eyes and ears which are the most sensitive areas in your cat’s body, there are solutions that you may use. Choose one which is specifically designed to prevent cats with light-colored eyes to develop stains. For the ears, cats collect a considerable amount or wax so you have to take care of it when grooming. Removing this would maintain your cat’s health and help prevent infections. There are also cat wipes that you can use for the ears, eyes and teeth. 4. Keeping the paws clean. Cats are in the habit of scratching surfaces so it is better to keep them away from the furniture items in the house. It would also help if you keep those paws clean and trim their nails. You can go to a pet store and buy a nail trimmer specially designed for cats. Ask your veterinarian for the proper way to trim your cats nails so as not to hurt them in the process. If you find that your cat exhibits a not-so-healthy clawing habit, you may go for the option of declawing your cat. This is a surgical procedure where the nails are permanently removed so that it will not grow back. However, you should still ask your vets advice if you want to go for declawing because with this, cats will lose a natural defense mechanism. A better and kinder option is to regularly trim the cat’s nails, have them use a wooden post for scratching, or crate-training to prevent them from clawing at your most-treasured possessions. By following these tips and making time in your busy schedule to groom your cat, you would have a healthy and happy cat and be a happy owner as well.

Training the dog to come when it is called

Training a dog to come when it is called is a vital, and potentially life saving, part of any successful dog training program. All properly trained dogs must learn to respond instantly to the owner’s voice, and the sooner this lesson is learned the better. The advantages of teaching a dog to come when called are obvious. For starters, coming when called will help you regain control of the dog in case of collar break, snapped leash or other similar equipment failure. This is particularly important when you are out with your dog, especially in an area with lots of traffic. It is vital that the dog respond to your voice and return to your side, even in the absence of collar and leash, and even if there are lots of other things competing for its attention. Coming when called is also a vital skill for every working dog. Whether the dog’s job is herding sheep, guarding livestock, or sniffing out bombs and drugs at the airport, the working dog must be under total control at all times, whether on leash or off. Even if your dog’s only job is being a loyal companion, it is still vital that he learn this important basic obedience exercise. After the first obedience lessons, such as heeling, stopping on command, sitting on command, etc. have been learned, it is time to start incorporating the come when called lessons into the daily training sessions. One note about dog training – it is all too easy for training sessions to become dull and routine for both handler and dog. A bored dog will not be receptive to learning, just as a bored handler will not be a good teacher. It is important, therefore, to always incorporate fun things and play into every training session. Incorporating a few minutes of play time before the lesson begins can do wonders for the attitude of dog and human alike. Likewise, ending each training session with a few minutes of free play time is a great way to end on a positive note and to help the dog associate obedience training with fun and not drudgery. The command to stay and the command to come when called are often combined in obedience training lessons, and they do go naturally together. Start with the dog on a loose leash, ask the dog to sit and then slowly back away. If the dog begins to get up and follow you, return to the dog and ask him to sit again. Continue this process until you can reach the end of the leash without the dog getting up. After you can successfully reach the end of the leash on a consistent basis, try dropping the leash altogether. Of course you will want to do this in a controlled environment like a fenced in yard. After the dog has mastered the stay command, it is time to add the come when called command. Take up the leash again, and with the dog on the end of the leash, say “come” or “come here”. It is often helpful to use a lure when teaching this behavior. The lure provides a visible item for the dog to focus on. Teaching the dog to come to the lure is a good first step in training the dog to come when called. Repeat this procedure many times until the dog will consistently stay and then come when called. After the dog has mastered coming when called while attached to the leash, slowly start introducing the concept when the leash is removed. As before, these training sessions should only take place in a controlled, safe environment, such as a fenced in front or back yard. A well trained, obedient dog should respond to the call to return to its owner no matter where it is and no matter what distractions may occur. It is therefore necessary to test the dog with distractions of your own. If you have a neighbor, preferably one with a dog of his own, try having him come over with the dog. Have him, and the dog, stand just outside the fenced in area and repeat the come when called exercise with your dog off leash. If he becomes distracted by the other dog, put the leash back on and repeat the process. The goal is to have your dog consistently pay attention to your commands, no matter what distractions may present themselves.

Find the right pet carrier to fit your and your pet s lifestyle

If you're someone who is always on the go, the chances are good that there are times when you want to take your pet with you. Indeed, more people than ever before are bringing their furry and feathered friends along on car trips, camping trips, and even airplane trips. When you do, though, you want to make sure your lovable pet travels safely and in style. To help you find a pet carrier that fits your and your pet's needs, here is an overview of what's available: Bicycle Pet Carriers Bicycling is fun and great exercise. Whether you're going to a nearby park or riding along a boardwalk, your pet will want to go along for a ride! Bicycle pet carriers come in two main styles: baskets and trailers. The best baskets weigh in a less than five pounds, and can comfortably accommodate pets weighing up to 13 pounds and standing up to 13 inches tall at the shoulders. Designed to sit on a bicycle's handlebars, rip stop polyester baskets typically have sturdy carrying handles and a shoulder strap that can double as a leash. Baskets often have several cargo pockets to store your gear, and come with an adjustable safety harness and a high visibility reflector stripe. It's simply not safe to leash your pet to a bike, so a bicycle pet trailer is the perfect solution for taking your larger dog with you on your next ride. This type of pet travel carrier typically comes in two sizes, one for pets up to 45 pounds and another for pets up to 115 pounds. Pet trailers usually have zippered mesh "windows" and removable vinyl panels that you can adjust for the current weather conditions. With a wheel on each side, a pet trailer hooks to the rear wheel of the bicycle for a safe and fun trip. Wheeled Pet Carriers Whether you're going for a neighborhood stroll or walking through an airport, you need a wheeled pet carrier or pet stroller. The main difference between a wheeled pet carrier and a pet stroller is that the carrier more closely resembles a mesh suitcase on wheels and the stroller resembles a baby stroller. Many carriers and strollers come in two or three sizes, with weight limits ranging from 8 pounds to 60 pounds. Some wheeled pet carriers are multi-purpose, and convert to car seats, backpacks, and pet beds. Others are suitable for carrying more than one pet at a time, which you might do for trips to the vet or to pet shows. These usually have two removable carriers that stack on top of one another in a stroller assembly. Small Pet Carriers Pet carriers for small animals like cats, rabbits, and ferrets allow you to keep your furry family member close to you. Best of all, small pet carriers come in a variety of styles, such as purses, backpacks and front packs. Bird Travel Carriers You no longer have to leave your feathered friend at home while you enjoy the great outdoors. With a bird travel carrier, you have an adventure pack that is easy to clean, comfortable to wear, and a snap to store. With all of the terrific pet carriers on the market, there's no reason to leave your best friend at home. Take him or her with you and create wonderful memories that will last a lifetime!

An introduction to canine hip dysplasia

: What is Hip Dysplasia? The hip joint consists of a “ball” on the femoral bone, and a “socket” on the hip bone. Canine hip dysplasia simply defined is when a dog’s hips do not develop normally and the ball does not fit snugly into the socket. What Causes Hip Dysplasia? While there is no “conclusive proof” of the cause of hip dysplasia, there are 2 general schools of thought about its cause – 1) genetic or 2) environmental These two differing viewpoints often place the dog breeders at odds with the dog owners, causing each to blame the other for the problem. Genetic: The puppy is born with the problem Environmental: The puppy is too heavy resulting in excessive growth and/or over or under exercising a puppy during its growth phase resulting in developmental problems. The most common theory is that hip dysplasia is indeed genetic. Most breeders have their breeding dogs’ hips rated by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) or Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program (Penn-HIP), or various other international orthopedic groups. We could discuss the merits of both theories, but it doesn’t change the facts. If your dog has hip dysplasia, you need to deal with it. You may be deciding what to do next, or you may have already decided, and want to know what to expect. When Does a Dog Get Hip Dysplasia? If you subscribe to the theory that it is genetic, they are born with it. Dogs that have severe hip dysplasia often begin to have problems as puppies. Sometimes, the hip dysplasia does not cause pain for the dog, so they do not show signs of it until they develop arthritis in their hip joints. Some dogs that are not as severe can live out their entire lives with few, if any symptoms. What are the Symptoms of Hip Dysplasia? There are a number of symptoms of hip dysplasia. Some dog owners only say that their dog didn’t walk right. Others will say they saw no symptoms at all, or just that their dog began to limp. Following is a list of common symptoms, of which your dog may have a couple and not have hip dysplasia. Bunny Hopping: The dog tends to use both hind legs together, rather than one at a time. This occurs when the dog is running, or going up stairs. Side Sit: Also called lazy sit, slouch or frog sit. When the dog sits, its legs are not positioned bent and close to the body. They can be loose and off to one side, or one or both legs may be straight out in front. Sway Walk: Also called a loose walk. When the dog is walking, the back end sways back and forth because the hips are loose. Unusual Laying Position: Legs are straight out and off to the side when the dog is laying on its stomach or legs are straight out behind the dog. (All dogs lay with their legs behind them on occasion, many dogs with hip dysplasia lay like this all the time.) Limping: The dog may favor one hind leg or the other, and may alternate legs that it is favoring. Quiet Puppy: Puppies who are already in pain from hip dysplasia tend to be very good puppies. They do not rough house the way that normal puppies do. They also tend to sleep for a long time after playing or going for a walk. Some owners describe their puppy with hip dysplasia as the best puppy they’ve ever had. Dog Doesn’t Jump: Not only do they not jump on you, they seem to pull themselves up by their front end onto furniture as opposed to jumping up. Underdeveloped Hind Quarters and Overdeveloped Chest: This is caused by the failure to use the hind legs normally and jump. The dog also may actually be shifting weight forward. Diagnosing Hip Dysplasia The only way to diagnose hip dysplasia is with x-rays. However, I must note here that you should treat the dog and not the x-rays. Some dogs with seemingly mild hip dysplasia are in a lot of pain, while other dogs with apparent severe hip dysplasia do not display symptoms. What Can Be Done for My Dog? If you have had x-rays taken of your dog’s hips at your regular vet, you may have been referred to an orthopedic surgeon. The surgeon is going to recommend various surgical options for your dog. I am going to give you a very brief overview of these surgeries. You will need to discuss your dog’s options with the surgeon. They will provide the details of each surgical option. Some people are able to treat their dog with nutritional supplements and avoid surgery. Ultimately, it will be your decision to determine the best treatment for your dog. Surgical Options: Juvenile Pubic Symphysiodesis (JPS) - This surgery is performed on puppies under 20 weeks of age, generally when the puppy is neutered or spayed. It shows great promise as a preventive measure, by altering the pelvic growth. This surgery has a short recovery period, but is generally done before a puppy can be diagnosed. However, once you’ve lived with hip dysplasia, it may prove to be worthwhile for a puppy considered at risk for developing hip dysplasia. Dorsal Acetabular Rim (DAR) – This surgery consists of bone grafts being taken from other areas of the pelvis to build up the rim on the hip socket (cup). The idea is for the femoral head to have a deeper socket to fit into. It's relatively new, so there is some question as to how a dog will do into old age - there aren't many older dogs that have had it done. Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO) - This surgery involves cutting the bone around the hip socket and repositioning the socket for a better fit with the femoral head. The bones are plated back together so they heal in the correct alignment. This surgery is performed on young dogs before they have finished growing. Total Hip Replacement (THR) – This surgery consists of replacing the hip joint similar to a human hip replacement. A new cup is usually attached to the hip bone, and the femoral head is cut off the leg bone and an implant is inserted into the leg bone. This surgery is done on more mature dogs that have finished growing. Due to the size of the implants, this surgery is done on larger dogs. Previously, all artificial hip components were cemented in place. More recently, cementless hip replacements are being performed. Femoral Head & Neck Ostectomy (FHO) – This surgery consists of removing the femoral head of the leg bone to eliminate the pain of hip dysplasia. The dog’s body will then develop scar tissue to create an artificial hip joint. Long considered only appropriate for smaller dogs or as a salvage operation for a failed THR, it has become increasingly popular for larger dogs. Non-Surgical or Conservative Management Option Many people choose to have surgery performed on their dog only as a last resort. Some are able to manage their dog’s hip dysplasia with supplements, acupuncture, chiropractic care, exercise and weight management. Sometimes, the puppy will show signs of pain from hip dysplasia, and once it is done growing and the muscles are fully developed, they seem to “go into remission”, developing signs of hip problems again as the dog ages. Surgical options are still available to you if the conservative path is unsuccessful. For additional information on hip dysplasia, please visit mypoordog

4 To 8 dog agility jumps makes ideal training

We are often asked, "How many jumps should I start with?" You can never have too many single jumps to practice agility. A good starting place is four jumps. This is the absolute minimum number of jumps that we recommend. You can teach a variety of skills, drills, and exercises with four jumps. Four jumps will allow you to work on a short jump chute or jump grid. You can setup a "box" with your jumps and practice handling, collection, and 270 degree jumps. You can teach your dog jumping left and right. You can be outside the box and send your dog or you can handle from the inside of the box. Your jumps can be setup in a horizontal line, so that you can practice serpentines and threadles. Go the next step and get eight jumps. Now you can setup two boxes with one introductory jump. You've now multiplied your drills that you can practice with your dog. Your jump grids can be of recommended size and quantity of jumps. You can also setup your jumps in a circle with the jump bars perpendicular to the circle or on the circumference of the circle. This pattern also enables you to train a variety of skills. Your next consideration is a double jump and a triple jump. You could set two or three single jumps together to make your expanded jump, but having double and triple jump in your course work is really valuable to practice. We've seen many dogs run a clean course and the last obstacle is a triple and the dog is not prepared for it, and bang, down comes the bar. You can really be ahead of the pack and have two sets of eight jumps. This is the ultimate in training because you can keep a jump grip up at all times that is separate from your course work, and have eight single jumps to have for course work. And when you include your double and triple, you can really practice all the jumping skills and drills necessary to get you those "Qs".

How to choose a dog trainer

With so many dog trainers out there, it can be hard trying to choose the best one for your dog. Trying to determine which dog trainer is the best qualified to train your dog can be a difficult task. The American Dog Trainers Network recommends the following criteria for choosing a dog trainer for your dog: Reputation: Recommendations from your vet, other reputable trainers, friends that have had their dogs trained, etc. can help a lot in deciding which trainer to go with. Experience: You should look into each potential trainer's background before deciding on your dog's trainer. Years of experience and areas of expertise are just a couple of things to look for. A good, professional dog trainer won't hesitate to answer your questions, so be prepared to ask a lot of them. Afterall, your dog is part of your family. Training methodology: Reputable dog trainers care about every dog's welfare. They will know that harsh or abusive handling methods are counter-productive and not good for the dog in general. Love for dogs: The best dog trainers have a general love for dogs, or they wouldn't and shouldn't be involved in that line of work. You'll know a great trainer by his or her joy of living and working with dogs. Extensive behavioral knowledge: Dedicated trainers keep up-to-date on all of the latest training methods by attending dog training and animal behavioral courses, conferences, seminars, workshops, etc. whenever possible. Make sure you inquire about any recent educational courses that the trainer has attended. Teaching and communication skills: Dog trainers that have good teaching and communication skills make the learning process easier, quicker and more enjoyable for the dogs. Affiliation with reputable organizations: You can always tell a good dog trainer by the organizations, associations and clubs that he or she is affiliated with. Ethics or profit?: You should find out what motivates a potential dog trainer. Is he or she in it strictly for the money, or for their love of dogs? Unless a dog trainer comes recommended by one or more reputable source, it really is a case of buyer beware. Anyone can call themselves a dog trainer. Do your homework when choosing a dog trainer for your dog. Your dog is part of your family, so you should put as much effort into choosing a trainer as you would in choosing your dentist. The wrong kind of training could damage your dog for life.